Surfing 20110627

20110627:
[20110628]
So today (20110627), I load my bike into the car. I tie the trunk down since even with the front wheel off, because I can't seem to fit the bike completely in the trunk. I will consider investing in a bike rack. I find parking at 11:43 pm. I sign in at 12:06 pm. Thus, I estimate the bike ride took between 15 to 20 minutes. There were some minutes spent setting the bike up and chaining the bike to the lamp post. For 2 miles, this would be a pace of 6 to 8 miles per hour.

I grab a suit and longboard and head down to tower 18. I was wearing my rashguard today under the wetsuit. Like 20110621, I practiced popping up on land a couple of times. Still mostly focusing on the three steps. When I got in the water, I felt the water didn't feel as warm as on 20110621. However, the water was still nice, and unlike 20110621, the sun was out and basking in the sun felt great.

I remember now why low tides help, at least I think this was a reason: at low tide, you can walk out further beyond where the waves crash. In any case, the push of the water was strong. I found myself down by tower 19, walked back up to 18, found myself down by 19, and then walked once more to 18 over the course of today's outing.

I rode whitewater once. But otherwise spent the day paddling. One thing I took from the day was that it worked so much better to sprint and paddle with a long of will and force than to paddle slowly. This is in order to get out to sea and beyond where the waves crash. Then, save some energy out there, perhaps skipping some waves. Then when the energy is back, paddle for and catch the next wave. Easier said than done, but that's the gameplan I've developed. Also, I decided I should just practice close to shore, in particular, catch more whitewater. While I seem to already have a good idea of standing up, I should make it second nature.

I signed out at around 1:15 PM, so I got a good hour at the beach in. I probably headed back on my bike at around 1:20 PM. I got to the car at around 1:37 PM (Google Maps says it takes about 8 minutes from where I parked to The Home Depot, of which I was passing at 1:45 PM). Thus I went about 6 mph. This makes me happy, because the speed limit is 10 mph, 5mph when pedestrians are present. I don't know who enforces the speed limit, but I'm certainly willing to adhere to it, for the safety of others and for the safety of myself.

I came back from surfing just in time to join my friends for Tennis 20110627.

Note on Grammar: I typically start a lot of my posts in present tense and end in past tense. I probably should pick one or the other and keep it consistent. Sometimes I go back and change the tenses, and sometimes I just leave it as is.

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